Saturday, October 19, 2013

Lessons from a former "Beauty Advisor"

I was talking about beauty products with my mom yesterday, when I realized that there are things that I learned while working in a cosmetics department that most people probably don't know... So I wanted to share some of the wisdom with you dolls. Just think of me as your beauty sensei, as I give you the dirt on some things I picked up during my "beauty advisor" days.

EDT vs. EDP
My mom mentioned that a friend had purchased a fragrance years ago that basically evaporated overnight and asked me why I thought this was. I explained to her that the most likely reason for this is that the fragrance was probably an eau de toilette (EDT), which contains a higher alcohol content, while eau de parfums (EDP) contain scented oil that does not evaporate as quickly and clings to the skin for a longer scent payoff. Most drugstore and discount department store fragrances are "EDT", but they are also sold at most major department stores (Macy's, Belk, Dillard's, etc.). If you've ever walked into a CVS or Walmart and been shocked to see a "designer" fragrance, you are usually looking at an EDT. EDT's are generally cheaper than their EDP counterparts. I think of them as body sprays, similar to the quality you may find at Bath & Body Works. If you find a fragrance you love, I highly recommend you purchase the EDP, you will pay a bit more but you will get a longer shelf-life out of your fragrance as well as longer wear throughout the day.

Remember the color wheel
Black mascara is not for EVERYONE. I, like most ladies, cannot go without mascara... It's a sickness really, I don't feel like myself without dark fringe hanging above my eyes (I have come to terms with my weirdness already). I have a lighter complexion, green eyes, and "bronde" highlighted hair... I need to define my features or I can easily look washed out. Mascara is my favorite product for providing definition and contrast. However, extremely fair skin and "blackest black" mascara are not always the most natural (or flattering) combination. Remember that most extreme black mascaras have the tiniest hint of blue in them and when worn by ladies with very pale skin, the mascara brings out the blue that exists below most of our eyes, making dark circles appear more prominent on porcelain complexions. Dark brown mascaras are a much better choice for dolls with ivory skin and naturally blonde locks, as well as more mature ladies that have light skin and/or thin lashes. Brown mascara won't look so harsh and tarantula-like. If you're fair but can't part with your black mascara (like me) opt for brown mascara on bottom lashes. I learned this trick when Estee Lauder introduced Sumptuous Two-Tone Eye Opening mascara (if you're interested, I believe they have a GWP going on now at Belk, FYI). One end had a normal Sumptuous wand with black mascara, while the other contained a smaller wand to coat bottom lashes in a dark bronze shade. The idea behind this is that the brown warms up most eye colors by enhancing the gold tones and gives a wide-awake look, while not creating black spidery bottom lashes. The unadvertised perk is that the brown mascara defines the lash line without calling attention to dark circles below the eyes the way black mascara can. I have really big round eyes (I'll admit they looked kind of huge on me as a kid) that need definition on the bottom lash line or they just look more round. I started wearing Benefits Badgal Brown mascara on my bottom lashes and immediately noticed how much brighter my eye area looked in pictures. The Badgal Brown mascara wand is way too long for bottom lashes and usually makes a mess, so I have switched over to Maybelline's Great Lash Lots of Lashes, with its tiny cone-shaped brush that grabs every.single.lash. (Watch for it to be included in my new faves post!)
http://www.esteelauder.com/product/637/21175/Product-Catalog/Makeup/Eyes/Mascara/Sumptuous-Two-Tone/Eye-Opening-Mascara/index.tmpl



Also, let's discuss nude lips! Nude lips can look sophisticated when done right... when done wrong they can make lips disappear... or worse... no one wants to look like they have piece of a Snickers stuck to their lips. When going nude (insert teenage giggling) there are several variables to keep in mind. If you are fair, do not go more than a shade deeper than your natural lipcolor, if you go lighter your lips look too flesh-tone and vanish into your face. If you are medium to tan, you can go a couple of shades darker than your lipcolor. If you have a deep to dark complexion, it usually looks best to go a shade or two lighter than your lipcolor. Good nude lips compliment smokey eyes or super bronzed skin, while defining the mouth but not overpowering the face. There should be a contrast between skin color and the lipcolor, but not so much so that the lips looks brown. Nude lips had a huge moment in the nineties thanks to Pamela Anderson (who also brought comma brows in vogue, see above left) but the era of brown lipstick and darker brown liner has passed. Today's "nude lip" is exactly that... a natural looking lip that does not resemble what your lips look like after eating s'mores. If you have pinky undertones, make sure to choose a nude that is pink-based. If you have golden undertones, choose golden beige nudes. I recommend the Too Faced La Creme de La Creme kit at Sephora contains both a pinky nude ("Naked Dolly") and beigy nude ("Spice Spice Baby") lipstick shade, plus a true nude lipliner and lip primer.

http://www.sephora.com/la-creme-de-la-creme-long-lasting-lip-collection-P382316?skuId=1554328

Bold lip color REQUIRES lipliner
Before becoming a beauty advisor, I had only worn lipliner for prom when a Lancome beauty advisor (it was destiny!) lined my lips before applying "Wannabe," one of my all-time fave blue-based pink lipsticks. She explained to me that this bright raspberry color needed a base or it would travel outside of my mouth and quickly wear off. Once I started working for Lancome and rediscovered "Wannabe," I realized how right she had been! Bold colors, especially when they are creamy, need liner to keep them from feathering and bleeding outside the lines. I cannot tell you how many times a customer almost walked away after trying on a red or berry lipstick because it looked "messy." I would always pair the lipstick with a coordinating liner (or a liner that matched their natural lipcolor) and the customer would be amazed at how a stand-out lipcolor transformed their entire look by brightening their complexion and enhancing the shape of their lips. Natural shades usually do not leave tell-tale signs of wear, but also benefit from the longevity and clean definition that lipliners provide. I will always love Lancome's waterproof Le Lipstique liners, but NYX also has a fabulous line of affordable long-wearing liners (in 60 shades!!!).

I hope some of these tips are helpful to you!

xoxo,

Alicia

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