Saturday, October 19, 2013

Lessons from a former "Beauty Advisor"

I was talking about beauty products with my mom yesterday, when I realized that there are things that I learned while working in a cosmetics department that most people probably don't know... So I wanted to share some of the wisdom with you dolls. Just think of me as your beauty sensei, as I give you the dirt on some things I picked up during my "beauty advisor" days.

EDT vs. EDP
My mom mentioned that a friend had purchased a fragrance years ago that basically evaporated overnight and asked me why I thought this was. I explained to her that the most likely reason for this is that the fragrance was probably an eau de toilette (EDT), which contains a higher alcohol content, while eau de parfums (EDP) contain scented oil that does not evaporate as quickly and clings to the skin for a longer scent payoff. Most drugstore and discount department store fragrances are "EDT", but they are also sold at most major department stores (Macy's, Belk, Dillard's, etc.). If you've ever walked into a CVS or Walmart and been shocked to see a "designer" fragrance, you are usually looking at an EDT. EDT's are generally cheaper than their EDP counterparts. I think of them as body sprays, similar to the quality you may find at Bath & Body Works. If you find a fragrance you love, I highly recommend you purchase the EDP, you will pay a bit more but you will get a longer shelf-life out of your fragrance as well as longer wear throughout the day.

Remember the color wheel
Black mascara is not for EVERYONE. I, like most ladies, cannot go without mascara... It's a sickness really, I don't feel like myself without dark fringe hanging above my eyes (I have come to terms with my weirdness already). I have a lighter complexion, green eyes, and "bronde" highlighted hair... I need to define my features or I can easily look washed out. Mascara is my favorite product for providing definition and contrast. However, extremely fair skin and "blackest black" mascara are not always the most natural (or flattering) combination. Remember that most extreme black mascaras have the tiniest hint of blue in them and when worn by ladies with very pale skin, the mascara brings out the blue that exists below most of our eyes, making dark circles appear more prominent on porcelain complexions. Dark brown mascaras are a much better choice for dolls with ivory skin and naturally blonde locks, as well as more mature ladies that have light skin and/or thin lashes. Brown mascara won't look so harsh and tarantula-like. If you're fair but can't part with your black mascara (like me) opt for brown mascara on bottom lashes. I learned this trick when Estee Lauder introduced Sumptuous Two-Tone Eye Opening mascara (if you're interested, I believe they have a GWP going on now at Belk, FYI). One end had a normal Sumptuous wand with black mascara, while the other contained a smaller wand to coat bottom lashes in a dark bronze shade. The idea behind this is that the brown warms up most eye colors by enhancing the gold tones and gives a wide-awake look, while not creating black spidery bottom lashes. The unadvertised perk is that the brown mascara defines the lash line without calling attention to dark circles below the eyes the way black mascara can. I have really big round eyes (I'll admit they looked kind of huge on me as a kid) that need definition on the bottom lash line or they just look more round. I started wearing Benefits Badgal Brown mascara on my bottom lashes and immediately noticed how much brighter my eye area looked in pictures. The Badgal Brown mascara wand is way too long for bottom lashes and usually makes a mess, so I have switched over to Maybelline's Great Lash Lots of Lashes, with its tiny cone-shaped brush that grabs every.single.lash. (Watch for it to be included in my new faves post!)
http://www.esteelauder.com/product/637/21175/Product-Catalog/Makeup/Eyes/Mascara/Sumptuous-Two-Tone/Eye-Opening-Mascara/index.tmpl



Also, let's discuss nude lips! Nude lips can look sophisticated when done right... when done wrong they can make lips disappear... or worse... no one wants to look like they have piece of a Snickers stuck to their lips. When going nude (insert teenage giggling) there are several variables to keep in mind. If you are fair, do not go more than a shade deeper than your natural lipcolor, if you go lighter your lips look too flesh-tone and vanish into your face. If you are medium to tan, you can go a couple of shades darker than your lipcolor. If you have a deep to dark complexion, it usually looks best to go a shade or two lighter than your lipcolor. Good nude lips compliment smokey eyes or super bronzed skin, while defining the mouth but not overpowering the face. There should be a contrast between skin color and the lipcolor, but not so much so that the lips looks brown. Nude lips had a huge moment in the nineties thanks to Pamela Anderson (who also brought comma brows in vogue, see above left) but the era of brown lipstick and darker brown liner has passed. Today's "nude lip" is exactly that... a natural looking lip that does not resemble what your lips look like after eating s'mores. If you have pinky undertones, make sure to choose a nude that is pink-based. If you have golden undertones, choose golden beige nudes. I recommend the Too Faced La Creme de La Creme kit at Sephora contains both a pinky nude ("Naked Dolly") and beigy nude ("Spice Spice Baby") lipstick shade, plus a true nude lipliner and lip primer.

http://www.sephora.com/la-creme-de-la-creme-long-lasting-lip-collection-P382316?skuId=1554328

Bold lip color REQUIRES lipliner
Before becoming a beauty advisor, I had only worn lipliner for prom when a Lancome beauty advisor (it was destiny!) lined my lips before applying "Wannabe," one of my all-time fave blue-based pink lipsticks. She explained to me that this bright raspberry color needed a base or it would travel outside of my mouth and quickly wear off. Once I started working for Lancome and rediscovered "Wannabe," I realized how right she had been! Bold colors, especially when they are creamy, need liner to keep them from feathering and bleeding outside the lines. I cannot tell you how many times a customer almost walked away after trying on a red or berry lipstick because it looked "messy." I would always pair the lipstick with a coordinating liner (or a liner that matched their natural lipcolor) and the customer would be amazed at how a stand-out lipcolor transformed their entire look by brightening their complexion and enhancing the shape of their lips. Natural shades usually do not leave tell-tale signs of wear, but also benefit from the longevity and clean definition that lipliners provide. I will always love Lancome's waterproof Le Lipstique liners, but NYX also has a fabulous line of affordable long-wearing liners (in 60 shades!!!).

I hope some of these tips are helpful to you!

xoxo,

Alicia

Monday, October 14, 2013

My Obsession: OCC Lip Tar

Hi Dolls!

Over the weekend I dolled up a gorgeous bride-to-be for her engagement photos. She was having her photos taken at a fair, so we decided to go with a really fun look to match her backdrop...natural glowy skin, glamorous big lashes, and Barbie pink lips, of course. There would be a lapse in time between when we did her makeup and when the photos were to be taken, so I decided to pull out my beloved Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Lip Tar. I have used these for almost every wedding that I have worked on.  I got a lot of messages after posting a pic of my beautiful client, and 99% of those messages were regarding to the lip product she was wearing. I had been wanting to do a post about Lip Tar for a while, but after getting such a response to Kristen's photo, I knew I had to do it!

 I purchased the OCC Lip Tar Volume 1 set from Sephora about six months ago and immediately fell in love! They are super pigmented, long lasting, and made to be mixed to customize your own shades. The set I purchased included five lip tars ranging in shades from a coraly-nude to oxblood. My favorite colors have to be "Pretty Boy" (an intense hot pink) and "Stalker" (a true red). These are the only two colors I wear straight from the tube, the other colors I mix to create custom shades. Sephora is not currently selling the exact set that I purchased back in April. They have a set called "Volume 1" that contains all of the original shades, but instead of "Pretty Boy," it includes "Ophelia" (a classic light pink). Sephora also has a Lip Tar Mini All-Star set which I am dyinggggg for. The minis are 0.08 oz instead of 0.33 and includes four of the best selling shades (instead of five full size). I would recommend these to any of you dolls who are curious about Lip Tars, you get a few colors to experiment with and you get an opportunity to decide if you like the formula (you will, pinky swear!) and only shell out $20... instead of $49! When you buy them individually or as a set, a lip brush is included... which is absolutely necessary for a precise and clean application... if you apply this with your finger you will be walking around with a hot pink (or coral, red, whatever) fingertip for a while. I find that if you create a color you are just infatuated with, the best way to store your new fave lippy is to mix it up in a flat plastic jar with a screw on lid (check out Ulta or Target's travel section) and then you have a portable lip stain that travels well and doesn't become a sticky, staining mess in your makeup bag.
Below is the mini set available at Sephora.

I will warn you that you need to carefully line your lips before applying and only apply the tiniest amount. The formula is made to last and if you get it outside of the lines, you can quickly look the Joker... all day! Also, I would recommend exfoliating your lips and applying a very moisturizing balm before applying Lip Tar. The formula will adhere to dry or flaky lips (the way self-tanner does to dry knees and elbows!) and that is not cute on anyone. If you goof up and get it outside of the mouth, which I do about 30% of the time, you can clean up small mistakes with a full-coverage concealer... if it's a big mistake you will need to use makeup remover to get it off and probably end up reapplying your face makeup. I know... major womp, womp. So remember: small amount of product on moisturized and lined lips and you will have fabulous lip color that lasts all day!

Later this week, I will be swatching all of my Lip Tar shades and showing you my favorite custom color combos.

xoxo,

Alicia

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Wish List Part II

I think I forgot something when drafting my first Wish List post... Oh just the preface that this was going to be a multi-part post of beauty items going on my own holiday wish list. I literally sing "Santa Baby" in my head as I peruse Sephora and Ulta these days.

Here are a few of the new items added to my letter to Santa.

Benefit Countdown to Love Advent

What genius reinvented the advent calendar, replacing the fattening candy with purse-sized beauty products?! Oh that would be the masterminds over at Benefit. Countdown the days until Christmas and pop open each Calendar day to find sample sizes of Benefit's bestsellers, including: High Beam (gorge pinky silver liquid highlighter), Hoola (my all-time fave matte bronzer for any skintone), and The POREfessional (highly rated pore minimizing primer). The set hides 24 decadent little treats to be discovered each day leading to Christmas... and the best part is... you don't have to wait until Christmas for this gift! You get to enjoy it each day of December!
$68 Sephora & Ulta
http://www.sephora.com/countdown-to-love-advent-calendar-P382074


 Lorac Sephora Exclusived Unzipped Collection

Oh-Em-Geeeeezy. I am so excited about this kit! I almost bought the Unzipped palette earlier this year when I saw how beyond pretty it was on my beautiful friend, Kelly... but I am so glad that I did not because this kit is fabulous! I love the rose gold shades of this kit. These shades warm up pale winter skin and come in an adorable mini train case. The palette includes a mix of shimmers and mattes that range from beige to chocolate. For $8 more than the palette itself, you get a a pinky-nude gloss, highlighter/bronzer duo, and sample sized primer.
$48
http://www.sephora.com/sephora-exclusive-unzipped-collection-P381308?skuId=1556786

Stay tuned for more of my most wanted picks... 2 new items will be added to the wishlist in November!


xoxo dolls,

Alicia

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

Big Beauty Deals

As I have stated several times, I am a product junkie. This can be a very expensive little habit to maintain, especially for a freelance makeup artist/graduate student. So I like to take advantage of ways to save money so that I can indulge in my addiction and still afford to eat... FYI: I like food about as much as I like makeup, so I'm not really willing to starve for a perfect smokey eye.

There are a few great deals going on at the moment, so I'm going to give you my cheat sheet for some fabulous beauty steals!



Rite Aid

I go through lashes like crazy! They are one of the easiest ways to create major impact for event makeup, photo shoots, or anytime you want to look/feel extra glam. This week, if you buy any one set of false lashes, you get a second set for 50% off AND you earn $4 toward your next purchase when you spend $10. Ardell Lashes usually run around $4, so if you purchase 4 pairs of lashes for $12 (after BOGO) you will then have a credit of $4 (they call it UP Rewards) sent to your card. They also have a printable coupon for $1 off false lashes on their site, bringing your actual cost down to $7 for 4 pairs of lashes!

Ulta

Ulta has several awesome deals to take advantage of this week. Revlon, NYX, Almay, and Neutrogena cosmetics are all 40% off! I recommend picking up the Revlon Just Bitten Balm Stain  (a fave that I mentioned in my September Drugstore Faves) for $5.9 and NYX Eye Brow Push Up Brow (I mentioned this great brow pencil/highlighter combo in my Bold Brows post) for $5.99. If you receive Ulta emails, they have also sent a personalized coupon code to receive 25% off of Red Carpet Manicure products... if you haven't tried Red Carpet Manicure, this is a great opportunity! I love this product line. The starter set is a bit pricey but if you get gel manicures you'll be saving so much! For the price of three salon gel manicures, you'll get the starter kit with everything you need to do them yourself. I'll be posting more info on RCM later this month. Ulta is also doing free shipping on orders over $25 without a coupon code, so you can also use their $3.50 off $10 coupon to save even more!




Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Wishlist Products

I got a rollerball sample of Kat Von D's Saint in a Sephora Superstar Kit this summer... and absolutely fell in love! The reason I love Sephora's set is that I get to try products that I would never purchase otherwise and this fragrance is exactly that... a product I would never gravitate toward in the store, but now I'm officially an addict. My all-time favorite fragrances are Miss Dior and Lancome's La Vie Est Belle, which are really similar to Saint (warm vanilla, caramel, and musk). What makes Saint different are the floral notes of jasmine and heady sandalwood. This scent is distinctive, and I always get, "What are you wearing?" when I swipe the rollerball on. The full-size will def be making an appearance on my Christmas wishlist this year.

Last Christmas I got Tarte's Collector's Set and was extremely impressed. The amount of quality makeup you get for the price is ridiculous! The shadows go on smoothly and are really pigmented and their glosses are moisturizing and feel great on your lips. What drew me to last year's set was the awesome Amazonian 12-HR Blush, which wear really well and give a pretty natural looking flush to the cheeks. I've seen this year's set and I can't wait to get my hands on it! The packaging is gorge this year as well.